BOOK REVIEW: INVITATION TO A BANQUET

Fuchsia Dunlop’s “Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food” delves into the cultural nuances of an incredibly vast and frequently misinterpreted culinary art of China. Chinese cuisine is the primordial form of food to exist and with its rich Buddhist heritage, it boasts a global presence. This book takes readers on a culinary journey, weaving personal anecdotes with meticulous research to showcase the diversity of Chinese dishes, exploring their complexities of taste, colour and texture. As the first Westerner to join the prestigious Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine, Dunlop’s engaging encounters with chefs, gourmets and home cooks provide invaluable insights, challenging her preconceptions and broadening her understanding of this rich and complex cuisine. The entire account can be seen as the author’s cultural learning and unlearning. 

When Chinese cuisine is referenced, it commonly evokes images of noodles, aromatic fried rice served in a takeout container, and the iconic fortune cookie. As Chinese immigrants opened restaurants and eateries to cater to the local palettes, they altered their traditional dishes to suit Western tastes and preferences. However, this exposure to Chinese food was often limited in its profoundness. The rich diversity and complexity of authentic Chinese regional cuisines remained largely unknown to foreigners, overshadowed by the more widely recognised and commercially successful tailored dishes. Dunlop's stories and discoveries shed light on this authentic Chinese cuisine. 

The central theme of the book is the impact of Chinese cuisine on global food culture, showing that it goes beyond catering to taste buds, encompassing aspects that historians are interested in. Delving into the historical and anthropological significance of specific Chinese dishes, the book artfully weaves connections with economics, social dynamics and privilege. When discussing economics and social dynamics, Dunlop first describes the Western perception of Chinese food as an unhygienic “poverty cuisine”. The book delves into cultural distinctions between China and other Asian countries such as Japan, tracing the origins of certain Japanese dishes back to China. It compares Chinese cultural practices across different dynasties, exploring the evolution of Chinese cuisine. Later, the book addresses key questions regarding the nature of Chinese food, how it should be understood by those living outside of China, and the habits and mannerisms associated with eating it.

The book begins with the section “Hearth: The Origins of Chinese Food,” which explores the techniques and behaviours associated with traditional Chinese dishes. The significance of cooking is seen as a status symbol, exemplified by dishes like ‘geng’ (Cantonese seafood) and ‘fan’ (rice), as well as the practice of serving certain dishes to the divine. The contemporary relevance of these practices is seen during the Lantern Festival where glutinous rice balls known as yuan xiao and tangyuan are served as snacks to honour the moon and pray for a family reunion, harmony, and happiness. Rice also serves as part of the Jujube cake; a traditional delicacy enjoyed during the festival. 

Meanwhile, Dunlop offers a profound exploration of Chinese culinary traditions, emphasizing the artistry and techniques involved. Her work delves into the meticulous blending of sweet and sour flavours, the precise slicing of ingredients for convenience in eating with chopsticks and other intricate aspects of Chinese cooking.  Chinese cuisine is known for its versatility and diverse flavours, with fluid cooking techniques that allow for endless variations in taste and texture. Immigrant restaurant owners in Western countries adapted dishes like 'gu lou yuk' to cater to local tastes while preserving some elements of Chinese culinary heritage. Another intriguing aspect is Chinese pasta from Shanxi Province, where dough is transformed into noodles. The author questions whether these authentic Chinese pasta recipes could rival traditional Italian pasta if Chinese cuisine gained broader recognition. This adaptability and creativity in Chinese cooking reflect an artful approach that humanizes food culture, moving away from stereotypes. 

In the final section, the author considers the philosophical dimensions of Chinese cuisine. One aspect explored is Buddhist vegetarianism, which connects back to the earlier discussion of serving food to the divine in the first section. Vegetarianism is seen as an act of devotion, and the skill required to create flavourful vegetarian dishes contrasts with perceptions of vegetarian food based on its appearance. The author further connects this discussion to the broader theme of culinary artistry, emphasizing how chefs skilfully craft vegetarian dishes that defy expectations, often leaving consumers pleasantly surprised by their flavour and presentation.  However, the transition from vegetarianism to preferences towards non-vegetarian food remains unexplored by the author. Food anthropologists argue that poverty historically impelled the inventive evolution of Chinese cooking, leading to a highly developed food culture in the United States. However, it was the Chinese philosophical principles of Yin-yang and the five elements theory that shaped the food culture. These principles dictate the use of ingredients and the preparation of food in harmony with nature and humanity, fostering culinary innovation. 

At the royal court, meals for aristocrats consisted of dozens or even hundreds of dishes, requiring a diverse array of ingredients, cooking techniques, and condiments to maintain variety without repetition. This tradition shows the richness and complexity of Chinese gastronomy, shaped by philosophical principles and culinary artistry across centuries. While the author does mention the privilege associated with Chinese food and mouthfeel as separate concepts, she does not delve deeper into distinguishing them. Chinese food has historically evolved through a sociological hierarchy of social privilege and political identity. The unconventional food, which is now underappreciated, was once served to kings as a symbol of nobility. This sociological privilege also dictated class and gendered dynamics. For instance, women were restricted from participating in social diet activities during public banquets. Within the larger feudal family or patriarchal clan, this type of phenomenon—men and women not eating at the same table — was a hereditary family habit. These dynamics at play can be put under the umbrella of identity politics, which remain rather underexplored. While an important text, the book lacks critical insights and caters to surface-level discussions that put Chinese culture in a better light.

Although the author presents a more positive image of Chinese culture, she neglects to mention the drawbacks of globalised Chinese food. For instance, contemporary treatment of Chinese food in America has fallen prey to rather negative phenomena of cultural appropriation and insensitivity. This trend is exemplified by the growing affiliation of Chinese restaurants with Caucasian chefs. For instance, in April 2019, Lucky Lee's in New York City provoked public outrage after claiming to serve "clean" Chinese food, seen by many as culturally tone-deaf. Similarly, Gordon Ramsay's restaurant "Lucky Cat,” also drew criticism for cultural appropriation. These incidents highlight ongoing challenges in the perception and treatment of Chinese cuisine within the broader culinary landscape of America.  

China's culinary journey reflects a complex blend of cultural appreciation and challenges, including racism and the emergence of new culinary forms like American Chinese and Indo-Chinese cuisine. This dynamic has contributed to an evolving national identity that remains fluid. The author's invitation to explore Chinese fare feels akin to a personal introduction to the rich and diverse world of Chinese cuisine, highlighting both its Western reception and the internal diversity within Chinese cooking across different regions.

While the book serves as an invaluable entry point into Chinese cultural studies and haute cuisine (food preparation as an art), it does have its limitations. The lack of critical analysis and discussion on identity politics leaves some gaps in understanding the broader implications of Chinese culinary evolution. However, the author's engaging writing style stimulates curiosity and encourages further exploration into contemporary debates surrounding Chinese food. And, despite its positive portrayal, the book could benefit from deeper critique and exploration of identity issues from the outset. Nonetheless, it remains a compelling introduction for anyone intrigued by the complexities and delights of Chinese culinary traditions.